East of Etosha, four hours' drive by saloon car from the outpost town of Grootfontein, there's a remote region of the northern Kalahari known as Bushmanland. Here, amidst vegetated, fossil dunes, the Kung Bushman (or !Kung) live, scattered around in small villages. These are the Bushmen of the Kalahari, also known as the San Bushmen. They have an understanding of their natural environment that is amazing to witness and survival skills that are beyond belief for many Westerners.

Looking through our trips and destinations, you'll realise that we don't offer many trips that focus on local people and cultures. As a matter of principle, we'd prefer to avoid them rather than risk sending our travellers on visits that aren't sensitively handled – as such interactions are potentially damaging for the local cultures. Whilst researching, we've seen cultural trips that we refuse to support because of this.

However, here we have confidence. We know that the money that the villagers earn from our travellers' visits has, over the years, made huge positive impacts on their lives; tourism has significantly helped the whole village. It's also increased the value that the people place on their own traditional skills and culture – as they now see these skills as a passport to earning money, rather than an anachronism.

There is one lodge in the area that we recommend, Tsumkwe Lodge, and using their help there are several places where it's possible to stay in more basic camps, including the simple tented camp, Nhoma Camp, and the chance to sleep-out in Khaudom National Park.

Wherever you stay, come to this area for at least three nights, preferably more; you can't do it justice in less time. Then you'll be sensitively introduced to the area, and to some of its people.

Khaudum National Park

North of Tsumkwe, beside Botswana's border, lies the remote Khaudum National Park. This protects an important area of the northern Kalahari that is sustained by underground waters of omurambas – dry, sandy riverbeds holding subterranean water. This isn't like Etosha: it's not wall-to-wall game and you can't drive yourself in a normal car. However, as part of a visit to Tsumkwe you can include a small 4WD expedition here (best visited from May to October), even one camping under the stars.

The game is wild and the atmosphere magical. There are large herds of elephant plus tsessebe, red hartebeest, blue wildebeest, kudu, oryx, giraffe and good numbers of the uncommon roan antelope. The main predators are spotted hyaena, lion, leopard and wild dog (Khaudum is the centre for Namibia's population of these rare predators). However, come here to experience a wilderness in a very remote corner of the Kalahari; let game sightings be a bonus.

As a side-trip from Tsumkwe Lodge, we can arrange a Khaudom fly-camp for you, during which you'll camp out in the park overnight – usually near one of the waterholes. This is a fascinating experience, but not for the feint-hearted!

Around Bushmanland

Around Tsumkwe ancient baobab trees are a feature of the landscape, while to the southeast are a series of shallow pans, including Nyae Nyae. These pans fill with water during the first few months of the year, attracting a host of pelicans, flamingos and migrant waders – as well as large numbers of springbok, gemsbok and other antelope. A trip to Bushmanland will normally incorporate exploring this area with an expert local guide and looking at its wildlife in detail.

Some are drawn here to the remote and mysterious Aha Hills, which straddle the border with Botswana, although the reality is that their jagged rock structure makes exploration on foot quite arduous.